Day of the Dead
Her face is unforgettable and she goes by many names: la catrina, la flaca, la huesuda, la pelona - fancy lady, skinny, bony, baldy. A fixture in Mexican society, she is not some trendy fashion model, but “La Muerte” - Death.
Renowned writer Octavio Paz observes that, undaunted by death, the Mexican has no qualms about getting up close and personal with death, noting that he “… chases after it, mocks it, courts it, hugs it, sleeps with it; it is his favourite plaything and his most lasting love”.
November 1st, All Saints Day, and November 2nd, All Souls Day, are marked throughout Mexico by a plethora of intriguing customs that vary widely according to the ethnic roots of each region. Common to all, however, are colourful adornments and lively reunions at family burial plots, the preparation of special foods, offerings laid out for the departed on commemorative altars and religious rites that are likely to include noisy fireworks.
From mid-October through the first week of November, markets and shops all over Mexico are replete with the special accoutrements for the “Día de Muertos” (Day of the Dead). These include all manner of skeletons and other macabre toys, intricate tissue paper cut-outs called papel picado, elaborate wreaths and crosses decorated with paper or silk flowers, candles and votive lights, and fresh seasonal flowers, particularly cempasuchil (marigolds). Among the edible goodies offered are skulls, coffins and the like made from sugar, chocolate or amaranth seeds and special baked goods, notably sugary sweet rolls called “pan de muerto” that come in various sizes invariably topped with bits of dough shaped like bones and, in some regions, unadorned dark breads moulded into humanoid figures called “animas” (souls). All of these goods are destined for the buyer’s “ofrenda de muertos” (offering to the dead).
At home members of the family might use the purchases to elaborate an altar in honour of deceased relatives, decorating it with “papel picado”, candles, flowers, photographs of the departed, candy skulls inscribed with the name of the deceased, and a selection of his or her favourite foods and beverages.
The spirits of the dead are expected to pay a holiday visit home and should be provided with an enticing repast and adequate sustenance for the journey. Frequently a wash basin and clean hand towel are provided so that visiting souls can freshen up before the feast. The offering may also include a pack of cigarettes for the after-dinner enjoyment of former smokers, or a selection of toys and extra sweets for deceased children.
In setting up the altar, a designated area of the home is cleared of its normal furnishings. The arrangement often consists of a table and several overturned wooden crates placed in tiers and covered with clean linens. The offerings are then laid out in an artistic and fairly symmetrical fashion. The smell of burning “copal” (incense) and the light of numerous candles are intended to help the departed find their way.
Meanwhile, at the family burial plot in the local cemetery, relatives spruce up each grave site. In rural villages this may entail cutting down weeds that have sprouted up during the rainy season, as well as giving tombs a fresh coat of paint after making any needed structural repairs. The graves are then decorated according to local custom. The tomb may be simply adorned by a cross formed of marigold petals or elaborately embellished with colourful “coronas” (wreaths) and fresh or artificial floral arrangements. In many areas children’s graves are festooned with brightly coloured paper streamers or other festive adornments.
On November 2nd family members gather at the cemetery for grave site reunions more festive than sombre. Some bring along picnic baskets, bottles of tequila for toasting the departed or even a mariachi band to lead a heartfelt sing-along. Local merchants set up provisional stands outside the cemetery gates to sell food and drinks. The booming reports of pyrotechnic rockets may announce the commencement of an open-air memorial mass, the occasion’s most solemn interlude.
Death held a significant place in the pantheons and rituals of Mexico’s ancient civilizations. Among the Aztecs, for example, it was considered a blessing to die in childbirth, battle or human sacrifice, for these assured the victim a desirable destination in the afterlife. The success of the Spaniard’s spiritual conquest in Mexico is due in part to their willingness to incorporate certain pre-Hispanic customs into Christian practices.
Source: The Day of the Dead — Mexico honors those gone but not forgotten. By Dale Hoyt Palfrey.